Is It Riverfront Vacation or Kashi Mutt?

Triveni Sangam at Prayag

Sunrise at Ganga early morning above

Bent Temple submerged in water

Above side early morning activities

above Ganga Aarti show during night



Sarnath where Buddha gave first sermon

Have you ever thought that you plan for Kashi Yatra and it turns out to be Five Star Riverfront vacation? Now there is something you can do about it, also. Here is my story.

Being Hindu and also GSB, we are supposed to visit Kashi and take a dip in a Triveni Sangam at Prayaag atleast once in a life time. Every time I plan to visit , I kept on postponing that once in a life time Holy visit. Early this year I was determined to plan that trip and longing to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple and get Blessing from that Lord Shiva who is standing there on the Banks of Ganga for last several centuries and the temple is protected by Hindu devotees from invasion of Muslim invaders and rulers several times (last one being Aurangzeb). Since flying time of twenty four hours from LA to Mumbai is exhaustive, I wanted to enjoy round trip train journey both ways. Because of off-season in late March, we, three, including my Elder Brother and Vanhi(Bhabhi, sister-in-Law) had no problem getting A/C two tier sleeping coach from Bori Bunder(now it is called Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) to Allahabad and return from Varanasi(Kashi, Banaras) to Mumbai Kurla station (now called Lokmanya Tilak Station). Counting about 24 hours train journey each way, we were left with six days of vacation in between to plan in that area of U.P.

Our next question is about where to stay. Coming from US, folks in India always look to us as status symbol and will hesitate to suggest anything other than staying in five star hotel. But I have not changed my outlook towards those Holy places which I had before coming to America. I had always heard great things about Kashi Mutt from my mother during childhood that it had over 100 rooms and one can get lost looking for your own assigned room. Plus the Mutt is over six hundred years old, and I love staying in those old monuments built rock solid with black stone. If people flock to some old ruins and monument in Rome for just a visit, I thought, why not stay in our own lodging at the Mutt built by our own community centuries ago. After some inquiries and contacts, my brother made reservation for a room old fashion way (writing a hand written postal letter to the resident Manager) and followed by a phone call after about a week for confirmation. The friendly manager even offered that he will more than welcome us and offered someone to receive all three of us not only at Varanasi but also at the Allahabad station so that our stay at both these Mutts will be comfortable.

On Sunday March 25, we hopped into our A/C compartment around midnight and just went to bed after Kalyan station past as there was dark everywhere outside the window. Our cozy little four bed section even had 110v American type connection so that we can hookup our video camera charger and laptop connection. Indian Railways is progressing so fast that my next journey might have facility for internet connection for a nominal charge. Perhaps all I can suggest to Laalu Prasad to provide this facility. Since the A/C compartment is served by the attached pantry car catering staff, we were frequently treated with snacks, tea/coffee, cold drinks, etc. for a nominal charges. Our train passed through Madhya Pradesh after crossing some of the cities in Maharashtra. I always used to enjoy frequent stops at several stations and junctions and noise created by those food vendors, plus you can stretch your legs at the station for five minutes. We saw miles and miles of fields of wheat growing plantations as Khandwa was known for wheat trading center. There was no boredom and after about 27 hours of journey (as usual the train was late about 3-4 hours), we reached Allahabad junction at about 2 am Tuesday morning. To our surprise, driver of the Mutt at Allahabad spotted us immediately and with a hired coolie for our luggage headed towards his Tempo (three wheeler). Our ride in the diesel engine Tempo was rushing thru those quiet and sleeping neighborhood town. We were greeted by house lady with typical Cochhi Amchigele (Konkani) who had made bed for us in a room so that we can take rest immediately after washing.

After early morning shower, Aarti and breakfast we headed in the Tempo towards Sangam where Ganga, Jamuna and underground Saraswati meeting place. Luckily we escaped the time earlier month when Kumbh Mela had taken place; but the dirt and trash left behind by those devotees were still not cleaned up by the city. It was a beautiful sunny day, picture perfect. We boarded a small boat and our guide took us to the knee high bathing place at the tri-point of the rivers. Also, while returning on the boat our guide told us to fill the Ganga water before this water merges with the grey water of Jamuna. This water is supposed to be most holy and later in Kashi vendors will seal this water by soldering the top in small copper jugs. According to legend, this sealed Ganga jal(water) is supposed to be kept in every Hindu family. When an elderly person in the family is just about counting his/her last breadth, spoonful of Ganga jal from this copper jug is offered to the dying person in his/her mouth by each family member present. After the sumptuous and delicious lunch Konkani style prepared by Bhatini Maai, we proceeded towards Kashi(Varanasi) by bus.

It was quite a bumpy ride with lots of potholes but fewer than in LA county area, and we reached Varanasi bus station, about half a mile from the Varanasi Railway station. As per instructions, we hired an autorikshaw, and reached Goal Ghar (round house) area beyond which motor vehicles have no access to reach Kashi Mutt; one has to walk to the Mutt about a mile long. Our BhatMam had come to escort us even though directions to the Kashi Mutt with arrows are clearly painted on the building of every corner. After reaching Mutt, the Mutt manager (BhatMam) assigned a room with three twin size beds combined together. Beds were made with very clean sheets and blankets and pillows, etc. It was late in the evening after the Aarti when we reached there, so we ate our delicious supper and after some Panchadiki (gossip), we rested for the night.

Since worshipping service staff gets up early in the morning at 5 am for preparation, guests usually sleep until late say until 6:30 or 7 am. Hot water from electric geysers is cut-off at about 8:30 after Aarti at 8 am and breakfast is served at 8:30 am. One can also walk down to those stone stair steps leading to the Ghats for bathing in Ganga water. This was our first day in early morning. The Mutt is almost like 7-8 story high equivalent of modern building. The Narasimha Deity Mandir is at the highest level and facing east. From the balcony, one can enjoy sunrise in the horizon with magnificent scenery. Down below in the crescent shape Ganga, hundreds of tourist boats are rowed by owners. Some tourist take pictures, movies and enjoy and greet the rising sun.

Next day morning, we hired a rental boat, arranged by our Mutt manager, and we were on the row before the sunrise so that we can capture the scenery and magnificent view on our video camera. For 2-3 miles ride, we glimpsed many of the Ghats where thousands of devotees gather to pay homage to Usha Kiran (early morning sun rays). Some locals and western tourists we saw were meditating, doing Yoga exercise and various other activities.

After our one and one half of round along the river, we anchored our boat near the Ghat where Kashi Vishwanath temple is accessible. It is about ¼ mile walk inside from the river bank. Because of terrorist threat, security is very tight. Any metal objects such as cameras, cell phone, watch, even pens are not allowed inside the compound. Due to extreme popularity, always there is a big line and rush. This ShivaLing is supposed to be most holy among the twelve lings. This Ling has been referenced in Puranas and supposed to be quoted in many religious books. Because of its popularity, it is also vulnerable to many attacks by Muslim foreign looters and mughal rulers; last being Aurangzeb, he destroyed original temple and built mosque on existing pillars of temples. Luckily the original ling was hidden in water by some brave Hindus where present temple was built by Rani Ahilyabai of Holkar family about 250 years back.

We did several activities around the city in next couple of days, such as visit to Sarnath where Bhagwaan Buddha gave first sermon, visit to Banaras Hindu University and new Birla Vishwanath temple, Tulsidaas Ram Charit Manas Exhibit, Sankat Mochan Temple(Hanuman Temple where Abhishek/Aiswaraya Rai visited), Museum of sculpture, etc. Of course we drank lots of Lassi, ate chats, ice-cream, pure milk sweets such as peda, barfi and Banarasi Paan, etc. and purchased Banarasi sarees and Kurta kamiz.

This is the best vacation I have ever enjoyed right on the river front. Most of th five star hotels are away from most of the Ghats. From American standard, this type of riverfront view vacations are beyond the reach of average people. Even when we were on vacation during Cairo visit ten years ago, we had paid $200-300 per night at Sheraton Hotel just to have a small view of Nile River. For a fraction in a local currency, we GSB and SB are lucky to have many Mutts in Kashi, Hardwar, Prayag and Kalpi at prime locations. I will be uploading some of the pictures here.

Contacts at Kashi and Prayag:
Kashi Mutt: Suresh Pai/Venkatesh Bhat 46/43, Mori(near Railway Bridge), Daraganj, Allahabad-211006 phone: 0532-2505047
Varanasi- Banaras Kashi Mutt, Brahma Ghat, 011-91-542-243-5632 near Goal Ghar